Affectionately known around the country as 'Brisvegas' and even 'Brisneyland', Brisbane oozes self-confident Queensland charm. It's a smart city with uniquely Australian architecture, enough sunshine to melt the coldest heart, and it's at the epicentre of the fastest growing region in the country. Sexily spliced into bite-sized segments by its meandering snake of a river, most of the city has water views. Years ago Brisbane was the poor third cousin of Sydney and Melbourne, in a decade or so it may very well be the largest city in Australia.
Like most Australian cities, Brisbane began as a penal colony. It was hard for convicts to escape across a deep, wide river and it was easy for ships to deliver supplies. A prison was established in 1825 on the current site of the CBD and the town quickly grew around it. Brisbane's hot, humid climate, and frequent summer storms led to a unique style of architecture developing through the 18th century as a hybrid of Victorian fashion and Indian colonialism — houses are raised up off the ground on stumps to allow air to flow underneath and wide verandahs with wind-protective slats allow for shady entertaining all year round.
The city grew steadily as the capital of the colony of Queensland and became a major trading port. By the onset of the Second World War Brisbane was the major city on the western Pacific rim and it was used as the main command post for the allied campaign against Japan. An influx of hundreds of thousands of soldiers required an infrastructure upgrade and the city blossomed. Migrants flocked in from overseas after the war was over and the city merrily expanded over the next few decades.
The 1982 Commonwealth Games were hosted in Brisbane and naturally the city's sporting and transport facilities were suped-up to cater for the crowds. The 1988 World Expo provided a good reason for re-development of the dodgy parts of town on the south bank of the river, and by the 1990s Brisbane had firmly staked its claim as Australia's third major city. Gorgeous weather, Government funding and public support for the arts rounded of its reputation as the most livable city in the country.
Brisbane is easily Australia's most livable, and least visitable city. There's enough infrastructure for locals to keep everything running smoothly, the weather is gorgeous (although rather warm in summer), the arts scene is alive and well, food is cheap and most people can afford to live in a great house reasonably close to where they work and play. It's a perfect recipe for somewhere to live, but when it comes to tourism, most people use Brisbane as a gateway to the rest of Queensland rather than a destination unto itself.
Sure, there's plenty of stuff to do, but there's no beach, no amazing history, no harbour, and certainly no Opera House. Brisbane culture is an accurate snapshot of modern Australia, but you wouldn't go there to study it. There are plenty of outstanding restaurants, but there's no central tourist precinct, and no central group of attractions; it's a city for locals.
You could drive up from Sydney and it would take you about 14 hours along the not particularly scenic Pacific Highway, but the easiest way to get to Brisbane is in a plane. Brisbane has a domestic and international airport and flights run regularly throughout the day. (There are flights almost every hour to and from Sydney and Melbourne.) Visit http://www.bne.com.au for more information.
Buses run day and night and there are regular train services in and around the city (http://www.citytrain.com.au). Fares range from $2.10 for a single zone, and go up to about $16.90 for a journey right across southeast Queensland. A train ticket between the CBD and airport will cost about $12 (although trains stop running at around 7.30 and then you have to get a bus). There are plenty of taxis about, you can either catch one from a major hotel, taxi rank, or landmark, or just hail one on the street. The two main cab companies in Brisbane are: Yellow Cab Co and Black and White Cabs.
Try Paddington for trendy cafés and bars and anywhere by the riverside for fine dining with a view.
As you'd expect in Australia's third biggest city, there are plenty of places to stay across the full range of budgets and tastes. Here's a few of the better known establishments:
Where the Movie Stars Stay
- Conrad Treasury Casino: This hotel is a Brisbane landmark located at the top end of Queen Street Mall (officially 130 William Street). It's a five star hotel and casino with five restaurants, numerous bars and world-class accommodation. Rooms start at about $190 a night, and weekends are generally much cheaper.
- Stamford Plaza Brisbane: Renowned for its outstanding service, gorgeous decor and splendid views, prices officially start at about $300, but you can grab a room for $140 if you try a list-minute booking website.
Good, reasonably priced hotels
- The Point Brisbane: New, friendly apartment hotel on the south bank of the Brisbane River (Lambert St, Kangaroo Point). Great views and close to the famous Storey Bridge. Rates start at about $99 a night.
- Rendezvous Hotel, Brisbane: Heritage-listed boutique hotel in the heart of the city (255 Anne Street). Rooms from about $140 a night.
Cheap and Cheerful Accommodation
- The Soho Motel: Great location opposite the Roma Street Parkland, nice bar, nice restaurant, rooms from about $70-$80 a night
- Explorers Inn: Budget accommodation in the heart of the city, right near the transit centre. Rooms from about $80 a night.
Backpackers Hostels
- Brisbane City Backpackers: Great views for a hostel, right in the heart of the city. Dorms from about $16 a night
- Moreton Bay Backpackers Lodge: It's away from the city, but near the beach and rooms start at $10 a night.
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